#1 Spray Foam Contractor in Atlanta, GA
Atlanta Elite Spray Foam installs spray foam insulation in homes and commercial buildings across Atlanta, GA and the surrounding metro.
We install open-cell and closed-cell spray foam that seals air leaks and steadies indoor temperatures in attics, crawl spaces, walls, basements and metal buildings, residential and commercial.
From new construction and large commercial shells to retrofits in older intown neighborhoods like Kirkwood, Grant Park and Virginia-Highland, we size every job to the building in front of us.
We work in metro Atlanta every day, so we know its hot, humid summers, freezing winter nights and Georgia’s energy code, and we build solutions around them.
Atlanta Elite Spray Foam also serves Alpharetta, Roswell, Johns Creek, Cumming, Marietta, Kennesaw, Woodstock, Canton, Lawrenceville, McDonough, Peachtree City, Newnan and the rest of Fulton, Cobb, Gwinnett, Cherokee and Forsyth counties.
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Fulton, Cobb and Gwinnett crawl spaces stay humid much of the year, and floor batts sag and soak it up.
We seal the perimeter instead: 2 to 3 inches of closed-cell on the foundation walls and rim joist for R-13 to R-21 and a Class II vapor retarder. Vents get closed and a 20-mil vapor barrier covers the dirt, so the space tracks within a few degrees of the house. Floors stay warmer and moisture builds slower. Where code requires a thermal or ignition barrier over exposed foam, we add an intumescent coating.

Atlanta attics pass 130°F in summer, baking the ducts and rooms below. Two approaches:
Unvented attics typically get 5.5 inches of open-cell (about R-20) or 3 inches of closed-cell (about R-21), meeting Zone 3 code minimums. We also seal recessed light housings, hatches and knee walls in older Decatur and East Atlanta homes.

Foam fills the full wall depth and closes the gaps batts leave at plumbing, wiring and electrical boxes. In a 2x4 exterior wall, about 3.5 inches of open-cell gives R-13 and 3 inches of closed-cell hits R-21. A 2x6 wall with 5.5 inches of open-cell reaches R-20. Interior partition walls get 3.5 inches of open-cell for sound dampening more than R-value.
We spray open cavities in new construction and gut renovations. Finished walls take injection foam through small drilled holes in siding or interior drywall, each patched and sealed.

Concrete basement walls pass heat to the soil, and humid summer air condenses on them. We spray 2 to 3 inches of closed-cell right on poured concrete or block, stopping vapor drive and air movement with no poly sheet. It grips stone foundations, tie holes and form seams, and the rim joist band gets the same treatment.
Finishing the basement? We size foam thickness to your framing depth so drywall goes on clean. Active seepage or other water intrusion must be fixed first, and we flag it during inspection.

Foaming at framing reaches spots buried later: tray ceilings, chases, cantilevered floors and bonus room knee walls. We spray after the plumbing, electrical and HVAC rough-in inspections, one to two days for a standard home, then drywall follows.
Tighter houses need smaller HVAC equipment, so your mechanical contractor gets our R-value documentation and blower door data. Foam also helps builders pass blower door test thresholds under Georgia's energy code.

The rim joist band on the foundation sill is a top air leak, full of seams and pipe and vent holes, often with only a loose fiberglass batt.
We fill each joist bay with 2 to 3 inches of closed-cell, lapping onto the sill plate and subfloor edge, for R-13 to R-21 and a continuous air and vapor seal. Closed-cell keeps warm indoor air off the cold band board in winter, the source of condensation and rot. It is a small job with measurable results that pairs well with basement or crawl space work.

Pole barns sweat like metal buildings, plus open framing and purlin spacing. Closed-cell on the roof and wall panels fills around girts and purlins as a continuous air barrier with no separate vapor barrier. Uses:
Foam adds little weight, key on post-frame buildings not built for heavy insulation systems.

Foaming the walls and ceiling an attached garage shares with living space cuts heat transfer and blocks exhaust fumes and chemical vapors. Year-round detached garages and workshops get walls plus roof deck or ceiling, so they are cheap to heat and cool.
We seal the door header and framing, though the panel needs its own insulating kit. Exposed garage foam needs an ignition barrier coating by code, and we include it.

Steel buildings sweat when warm indoor air meets cold panels, dripping on equipment, inventory and floors. Closed-cell on the panel undersides removes the cold surface and the condensation with it.
Most jobs run 2 to 4 inches for R-14 to R-28 depending on use, and foam also stiffens panels and seals laps and fastener holes. We spray shops, warehouses, storage and agricultural buildings metro-wide, around your hours where ventilation and noise allow.
Summer roof decks in Atlanta pass 130°F. Foam under the deck lowers peak load, and refrigerated space gets 4 inches or more of closed-cell.
In Cherokee, Bartow and Coweta counties, closed-cell on sidewalls and ceilings cuts fan runtime and rusting condensation while insulating and moisture-proofing feed and grain storage.
Priced per board foot by foam type, thickness, building height, coatings, scheduling and any old insulation removal. Site visits are free, with itemized written estimates.
In Fulton, DeKalb, Cobb and Gwinnett counties: 2 to 3 inches of closed-cell on walls and roof decks, open-cell between office suites for sound dampening.
Rated intumescent thermal or ignition barriers come with paperwork for insurers and inspectors. Moisture-resistant closed-cell handles process piping and wash-down areas.
Bonded to metal panels, closed-cell stops condensation, reaching about R-13 at 2 inches as a Class II vapor retarder for pole barns, shops and contractor yards.
Blown-in cellulose or loose-fill fiberglass fills attic floors and closed wall cavities for less than foam, but it only settles in place without sealing, and cellulose can absorb Atlanta humidity, compact and lose performance. Spray foam bonds to rafters and sheathing, puts the attic inside the thermal envelope and keeps ducts out of a 130-degree attic.


Batts slow heat but leak air at framing, wiring and plumbing penetrations, common in older Atlanta attics. Fiberglass gives minimal air sealing at R-2.9 to 3.8 per inch. Spray foam expands, bonds to the substrate and adds built-in air sealing at R-3.5 to R-7 per inch.
Bills outpacing similar homes nearby, with the same habits and rates, usually mean air leakage. Sealing the envelope with spray foam fixes that root cause for lasting savings.
Feel air at a baseboard, outlet cover or recessed light? Outdoor air has an open path inside. Spray foam closes those penetrations completely, which batts and blown-in cannot.
An AC that never shuts off while the house stays warm means heat is winning, usually through wall cavities or an unsealed attic. A continuous spray foam air barrier lets your thermostat setting hold.
Damp air, musty odors or soft flooring mean humidity is moving under the house. Closed-cell foam on walls and rim joists builds a lasting moisture barrier at the source.
If the air handler cycles almost constantly and still misses the setpoint, conditioned air is escaping first. Spray foam seals those gaps and lets the system run as designed.
A top floor that runs hotter or cooler than the rest usually has heat moving through an unsealed attic plane. Foaming the roof deck evens out the whole house.
We check existing insulation, measure square footage and locate air leaks at ductwork, rim joists and penetrations.
Before we start, you get a written estimate listing foam type, R-value and target thickness.
We mask floors and finished surfaces, ventilate, and set hose temperature and pressure for the day, watching them throughout since poor temperature control usually causes off-ratio foam. We spray in passes, not one thick layer, to keep the exotherm safe and cell structure even.
We trim overspray, clear debris and walk through with you to verify coverage.
Botched installs, water damage and attic remodels can all leave foam that must be patched or pulled out. We handle both across metro Atlanta.
Small problems rarely need a tear-out. Rim joist gaps, framing shrinkage cracks and spots other trades cut open get refilled after trimming to sound foam. Steps:
Open-cell over closed-cell changes vapor performance, so we identify the existing product first.
Most removal calls trace to off-ratio A and B components or the wrong spray temperature, leaving foam that stays tacky, crumbles or keeps an odor that never cures out. Also:
Foam bonds hard to wood, so removal is scraping, cutting and grinding. We inspect the substrate before quoting, and timing depends on access, foam type and square footage.
Price depends on square footage, foam type and the thickness needed for your target R-value. Open-cell runs roughly $0.45 to $1.50 and closed-cell $1.00 to $2.50 per board foot (one square foot, one inch thick). A typical 1,200 square foot Atlanta attic at 5–6 inches of open-cell often costs $3,000 to $6,000.
Rim joist work and crawl space encapsulation are priced separately, and we quote in writing after measuring on site.
Most home attic or crawl space jobs take one day. Pole barns, whole-home retrofits and full new-construction wall cavities take two to three. Roughly:
Initial cure takes minutes, full cure 24 hours. Old insulation removal, sheathing repair or a crawl space vapor barrier adds time, built into the estimate.
Foam expands on application and seals gaps fiberglass misses at top plates, rim joists, attic bypasses and plumbing penetrations. With Atlanta summers past 90°F and humid, an unsealed attic pulls moist air into the envelope, feeding mold and warping framing. Also:
Open-cell foam has partly open cells, so it stays soft, expands about 100 times its liquid volume and gives roughly R-3.5 to R-3.8 per inch at about 0.5 lb/ft³. It costs less, has no vapor barrier properties and suits attics and interior walls.
Closed-cell is dense and rigid at about 2.0 lb/ft³, with R-6.0 to R-7.0 per inch, and becomes a vapor barrier at 1.5 inches or more. It costs more and fits roof decks, metal buildings and crawl spaces. In Atlanta homes we favor open-cell on attic roof decks and closed-cell in crawl spaces and band joists for moisture resistance.
Air leaks cause much of a home's heating and cooling loss. The U.S. Department of Energy estimates sealing them and adding insulation can cut those costs about 15%. A 1950s East Atlanta home with leaky ducts and a vented attic will save more than a 2015 build with decent sealing.
Owners who switch to a sealed, unvented attic often report shorter HVAC cycles and even temperatures between floors, which shows up on Georgia Power bills.
Yes, once fully cured. The components release vapors while reacting, so crews wear supplied-air respirators and full protective gear, and occupants and pets stay out during spraying and a re-entry period, typically 24 hours depending on product and ventilation.
Cured foam is inert. It does not off-gas, feed mold, or settle and sag like loose-fill. Our products meet ASTM E84 fire performance standards, with a thermal or ignition barrier where code requires.